The compendium

The ultimate guide to Pattu sarees

Twenty-six living weaving traditions — their heritage, how to care for them, and the occasions they were born for. Your field guide to India's silk treasures.

Uttar Pradesh01

Banarasi Silk

Opulent brocade woven with real gold or silver zari; floral and Mughal-inspired motifs dominate these heavy drapes — made for grand weddings and important celebrations.

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Gujarat02

Patola Silk

A meticulous double-ikat process where both warp and weft are tie-dyed before weaving. Geometric precision without equal — treasured bridal attire.

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Assam03

Assam Silk — Muga, Eri & Pat

Distinguished by a natural golden sheen and tribal motifs, these breathable silks are favoured for festive wear and Assamese cultural events.

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Madhya Pradesh04

Chanderi Silk

Silk blended with fine cotton creates a sheer, lightweight drape with delicate zari brocade — perfect for daytime functions and religious ceremonies.

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Odisha05

Bomkai / Sonepuri Silk

Tribal designs meet temple borders and contrasting pallus woven in gold thread — popular for festive pujas and traditional events.

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Gujarat · Telangana06

Patola & Pochampally Ikat

Double- and single-ikat sarees with striking geometric patterns in silk and silk-cotton blends — chosen for weddings and cultural gatherings.

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West Bengal07

Baluchari Silk

Mythological scenes woven into the pallu in rich silk brocade — traditionally worn during Puja celebrations and special occasions.

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West Bengal08

Matka Silk

Woven from thick spun mulberry silk for a slightly coarse, textured feel — everyday elegance that works beautifully for office wear.

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Bihar · Jharkhand09

Tussar / Bhagalpuri Silk

Earthy tones and a natural wild-silk sheen make Bhagalpuri silk ideal for both casual elegance and festive wear.

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Odisha10

Sambalpuri Ikat

Tie-dye on both warp and weft creates vibrant, softly blurred patterns — frequently worn during state festivals like Nuakhai.

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Bengal · Odisha11

Kotpad, Garad, Taant & Dhakai Jamdani

Silk and cotton blends featuring beloved local motifs — lightweight, comfortable, and favoured for religious ceremonies and daily wear.

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Maharashtra12

Paithani Silk

Instantly recognisable by tapestry-woven peacock and floral pallus in pure zari — heirloom pieces for weddings and Maharashtrian rituals.

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Telangana13

Narayanpet Silk

Earth-toned silk-cotton sarees with temple-style borders and checkered bodies — commonly worn for pujas and traditional gatherings.

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Tamil Nadu14

Kanchipuram / Kanjeevaram

Heavy mulberry silk with thick zari borders and korvai joins — the classic choice for weddings and temple ceremonies.

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Andhra Pradesh15

Dharmavaram Silk

Broad golden borders and grand motifs of peacocks and elephants — ideal for bridal trousseaux and classical dance attire.

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Andhra Pradesh16

Uppada Pattu

The Jamdani style on a featherlight base, often with intricate floating motifs — sought after for parties and ceremonies.

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Telangana17

Gadwal Pattu

An airy cotton body paired with rich silk borders and pallus — traditional for temple visits and graceful daily wear.

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Rajasthan18

Kota Doriya

Cotton and silk in a fine checkered "khat" weave — light, breathable, and perfect for summer events.

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Tamil Nadu19

Konrad Silk

The "temple saree" — bold nature motifs and wide borders, worn during religious rituals and weddings.

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Karnataka20

Mysore Silk

Famed for its smooth feel and understated zari — quiet luxury for formal occasions and festivals alike.

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Tamil Nadu21

Koorai Silk

A traditional cotton-silk checkered weave, draped in the Madisar style for Tamil weddings.

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Pan-India22

Tissue Pattu

Fine silk woven with metallic threads for a translucent, moonlit sheen — popular for receptions and festive evenings.

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Pan-India23

Raw Silk / Soft Silk

A gently coarse texture that still drapes with elegance — versatile silks for work wear and festivities alike.

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Andhra · Telangana24

Kalamkari Print on Pattu

Hand-painted or block-printed myths and florals on silk — perfect for artistic gatherings and cultural programmes.

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Rajasthan25

Pichwai Print Pattu

Inspired by the temple art of Nathdwara, these silks carry Krishna motifs — worn for religious celebrations and art events.

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Pan-India26

Ganga–Jamuna Pallu

Contrasting borders woven in two tones, like the meeting of two rivers — beloved across regions for weddings and festive wear.

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At a glance

Compare the prominent types

Region of origin and the one feature that gives each weave away.

Saree TypeRegion of OriginKey Identifying Feature
BanarasiVaranasi, Uttar PradeshIntricate zari brocade, Mughal-inspired motifs
MugaAssamNatural golden sheen, extreme durability
EriAssamAhimsa silk, coarse texture, thermal properties
PatAssamBrilliant white or off-white, smooth and lustrous
BomkaiOdishaIkat dyeing, tribal tinge, fish and temple motifs
BaluchariWest BengalMythological scenes on pallu, jacquard weaving
MatkaWest BengalRustic, uneven texture, eco-conscious production
Tussar BhagalpuriBihar, JharkhandNatural golden sheen, coarse "wild silk"
Sambalpuri IkatOdishaTie-dye patterns, blurred edges, geometric motifs
PaithaniMaharashtraTapestry weaving, peacock and lotus motifs
Kota DoriyaRajasthanSheer checkered "khat" pattern
KanchipuramTamil NaduHeavy mulberry silk, broad zari borders
DharmavaramAndhra PradeshMuted dual tones, gold borders
Uppada PattuAndhra PradeshJamdani weaving, lightweight
Gadwal PattuTelanganaCotton body with silk borders and pallu
KonradTamil NaduWide temple borders, checked weave
Mysore SilkKarnatakaSmooth pure silk, minimal zari
Raw SilkVarious regionsUndegummed fibers, textured feel
Soft SilkVarious regionsLightweight, smooth drape
Kalamkari PrintAndhra Pradesh, TelanganaHand-painted or block-printed narratives
Pichwai PrintRajasthanKrishna-inspired devotional art
Ganga Jamuna PalluVarious regionsTwo-tone contrasting borders and pallu

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