Ultimate Guide to Pattu Sarees of India

Discover the diversity of India's Pattu sarees, their heritage, how to care for them, and the occasions they are perfect for. Use this handy guide when searching for your next silk treasure.

Snapshot of Prominent Pattu Saree Types

Saree Type Region of Origin Key Identifying Feature
BanarasiVaranasi, Uttar PradeshIntricate Zari Brocade, Mughal-inspired Motifs
MugaAssamNatural Golden Sheen, Extreme Durability
EriAssamAhimsa Silk, Coarse Texture, Thermal Properties
PatAssamBrilliant White or Off-White, Smooth and Lustrous
BomkaiOdishaIkat Dyeing, Tribal Tinge, Fish/Temple Motifs
BaluchariWest BengalMythological Scenes on Pallu, Jacquard Weaving
MatkaWest BengalRustic, Uneven Texture, Eco-Conscious Production
Tussar BhagalpuriBihar, JharkhandNatural Golden Sheen, Coarse "Wild Silk"
Sambalpuri IkatOdishaTie-Dye Patterns, Blurred Edges, Geometric Motifs
PaithaniMaharashtraTapestry Weaving, Peacock/Lotus Motifs
Kota DoriyaRajasthanSheer Checkered "Khat" Pattern
KanchipuramTamil NaduHeavy Mulberry Silk, Broad Zari Borders
DharmavaramAndhra PradeshMuted Dual Tones, Gold Borders
Uppada PattuAndhra PradeshJamdani Weaving, Lightweight
Gadwal PattuTelanganaCotton Body with Silk Borders/Pallu
KonradTamil NaduWide Temple Borders, Checked Weave
Mysore SilkKarnatakaSmooth Pure Silk, Minimal Zari
Raw SilkVarious RegionsUndegummed Fibers, Textured Feel
Soft SilkVarious RegionsLightweight, Smooth Drape
Kalamkari PrintAndhra Pradesh, TelanganaHand-Painted or Block-Printed Narratives
Pichwai PrintRajasthanKrishna-Inspired Devotional Art
Ganga Jamuna PalluVarious RegionsTwo-Tone Contrasting Borders/Pallu

Banarasi Silk (Uttar Pradesh)

Banarasi silk, also known as Banaras or Varanasi silk, is famed for its opulent brocade woven with real gold or silver zari. Floral and Mughal-inspired motifs dominate these heavy drapes. Dry clean only to preserve the zari; they are traditionally worn for grand weddings and important celebrations.

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Patola Silk (Gujarat)

Patola sarees utilize a meticulous double-ikat process, where both warp and weft threads are tie-dyed before weaving. Their geometric precision is unmatched. These pure silks should be gently hand washed or dry cleaned and are treasured bridal attire.

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Assam Silk (Muga, Eri & Pat)

Assam produces Muga, Eri, and Pat silks, distinguished by their natural golden sheen. These breathable fabrics are often woven with tribal motifs. Hand wash with mild soap. They are favored for festive wear and Assamese cultural events.

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Chanderi Silk (Madhya Pradesh)

Chanderi sarees blend silk with fine cotton, creating a sheer, lightweight drape with delicate zari brocade. Dry cleaning is recommended. Perfect for daytime functions and religious ceremonies.

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Bomkai / Sonepuri Silk (Odisha)

Bomkai, also called Sonepuri, combines tribal designs with temple borders and contrasting pallus woven in gold thread. Gentle hand wash or dry clean. Popular for festive pujas and traditional events.

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Patola & Pochampally Ikat (Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh & Telangana)

These double-ikat and single-ikat sarees feature striking geometric patterns. Typically crafted from silk or silk-cotton blends, they are best dry cleaned. Women choose them for weddings and cultural gatherings.

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Baluchari Silk (West Bengal)

Baluchari sarees depict mythological scenes on the pallu, woven in rich silk with silk brocade. Dry cleaning keeps the motifs crisp. Traditionally worn during Puja celebrations and special occasions.

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Matka Silk (West Bengal)

Matka silk is woven from thick, spun waste mulberry silk, creating a slightly coarse, textured feel. Gentle hand wash is ideal. These sarees are popular for everyday elegance and office wear.

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Tussar / Bhagalpuri Silk (Bihar)

Tussar silk, known as Bhagalpuri silk, displays earthy tones and a natural sheen. Dry clean or use a mild detergent. Ideal for both casual and festive wear.

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Sambalpuri Ikat (Odisha)

Sambalpuri sarees use tie-dye techniques on both warp and weft, creating vibrant patterns. Pure silk versions require dry cleaning. Frequently worn during state festivals like Nuakhai.

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Kotpad, Garad, Taant & Dhakai Jamdani (Bengal & Odisha)

These sarees span silk and cotton blends featuring local motifs. Most are lightweight and comfortable, often hand washed carefully. They are favored for religious ceremonies and everyday wear.

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Paithani Silk (Maharashtra)

Paithani sarees are instantly recognizable by their peacock and floral pallus, woven with zari. Dry clean only. They are heirloom pieces for weddings and Maharashtrian rituals.

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Narayanpet Silk (Telangana)

Earth-toned Narayanpet sarees feature temple-style borders and checkered bodies. These silk-cotton blends can be gently washed at home. They are commonly worn for pujas and traditional gatherings.

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Kanchipuram / Kanjeevaram Silk (Tamil Nadu)

Heavy mulberry silk with thick zari borders distinguishes Kanchipuram sarees. Dry cleaning preserves the rich craftsmanship. These classics are preferred for weddings and temple ceremonies.

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Dharmavaram Silk (Andhra Pradesh)

Dharmavaram sarees showcase broad golden borders and grand motifs like peacocks and elephants. Dry clean for longevity. Ideal for bridal trousseaux and classical dance attire.

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Uppada Pattu (Andhra Pradesh)

Uppada sarees employ the Jamdani style on a light-weight base, often with intricate motifs. Dry clean recommended. They are sought-after for parties and ceremonies.

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Gadwal Pattu (Telangana)

Gadwal sarees pair a cotton body with rich silk borders and pallus. They can be hand washed gently. Traditionally used for temple visits and daily wear among South Indian communities.

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Kotalu / Kota Doriya (Rajasthan)

Kota Doriya sarees blend cotton and silk in a fine checkered weave known as 'khat'. Light and breathable, they are perfect for summer events. Hand wash recommended.

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Konrad Silk (Tamil Nadu)

Also called temple sarees, Konrad silks display bold nature motifs and wide borders. Dry cleaning is best. They are worn during religious rituals and weddings.

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Mysore Silk (Karnataka)

Mysore silk sarees are known for their smooth feel and understated zari. Dry clean to maintain the lustre. Ideal for formal office wear and festivals.

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Koorai Silk (Tamil Nadu)

A traditional cotton-silk checkered weave, Koorai sarees are draped in the Madisar style for Tamil weddings. Gentle hand washing keeps the fabric fresh.

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Tissue Pattu

Tissue pattu weaves fine silk with metallic threads for a translucent sheen. Dry clean recommended. Popular for reception parties and festive evenings.

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Raw Silk / Soft Silk

Raw and soft silks retain a slightly coarse texture yet drape elegantly. Suitable for hand washing, these sarees are versatile for both work wear and festivities.

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Kalamkari Print on Pattu

Hand-painted or block-printed designs depicting myths and floral patterns define Kalamkari pattu. Dry cleaning preserves the artwork. Perfect for artistic gatherings and cultural programs.

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Pichwai Print Pattu

Inspired by the temple art of Nathdwara, these sarees display Krishna motifs on silk. Dry clean to protect the detailed prints. Worn for religious celebrations and art events.

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Ganga–Jamuna Pallu

Ganga–Jamuna sarees feature contrasting borders woven in two tones. Care with dry cleaning to retain color vibrancy. Popular across regions for weddings and festive wear.

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